Teton Valley
The quiet backside of the Tetons. Two-stage arrival: a low-elevation soft landing on day one, then up the canyon into the Jedediah Smith Wilderness on day two — where unlike the parks across the pass, dogs are welcome on every trail.
Park City to Lopez Island and back, threading the wildest stretches of the Rockies, the Canadian interior, the North Cascades, and the Sawtooths — at a pace that lets us actually sit in the places we go.
A counter-clockwise loop: north through Yellowstone and Glacier, into the Canadian Rockies and BC interior, west to Lopez for a long stay, then home through the North Cascades and the Sawtooths.
Most nights are free dispersed sites on national forest, BC Crown land, or BLM — the camper handles a week without services, so we stay in remoter places without juggling reservations.
Average drive between basecamps is under 3 hours. Only two transit days exceed 5 hours. The longest stretches sit at the start and end, when we're home-territory comfortable.
Multi-night basecamps with hiking and biking right out the door. Dog-friendly trails throughout — particularly in Canada and on national forest land surrounding the parks.
Fourteen basecamps across two months. Each one earns its keep with a real reason to be there — a hot spring, a granite spire, a flow trail, a quiet ridge with the dogs.
The quiet backside of the Tetons. Two-stage arrival: a low-elevation soft landing on day one, then up the canyon into the Jedediah Smith Wilderness on day two — where unlike the parks across the pass, dogs are welcome on every trail.
A grizzly basin north of Gardiner, basecamp for a south-to-north traverse of Yellowstone. Skip the geyser zoo and drive Hayden → Lamar Valley for wolves at dusk, then sleep in shaded NFS dispersed sites away from crowds.
A real meal, a real shower, a resupply. One night at Chico Hot Springs or a quiet site up the Yellowstone River. Easy bridge between the Tom Miner ridge and Glacier.
Marshall Mountain's flow trail is the local gem — fast, smooth, the kind of run that makes you want a second lap. Rattlesnake NRA right in town for dog miles. Optional: drop into the Bitterroot for a deeper night.
The east side of Glacier is the dramatic side — sheer faces, the chain of red-rock cirques. Sun rises over the peaks instead of setting behind them. We base on Lewis & Clark NF dispersed and day-trip into the park, with one alternates-and-dogs day on the adjacent NFS.
First night across the border. The Chief Mountain crossing puts us straight into the park; Waterton townsite is small and walkable, dogs welcome on Parks Canada trails (a luxury after Glacier). Bear's Hump for sunset.
Banff's quieter back door. Same Rockies, same impossibly turquoise lakes, a fraction of the crowds — and provincial park trails that all welcome dogs on leash. Day-trip into Lake Louise at sunrise; sleep in a creek-side dispersed site on Forestry Trunk Rd.
Banff's quieter sibling on the BC side of the divide. Emerald Lake's turquoise is a rumor confirmed; Takakkaw Falls is one of Canada's tallest. The Iceline Trail is a glacier-hugging traverse for the no-dog day; Emerald Lake circuit is ours together.
Granite spires straight out of Patagonia, dropped in the middle of British Columbia. Few people, big quiet, world-class climbing happening overhead while we hike. Conrad Kain Hut as the marquee day; Cobalt Lake as the sleeper. Lussier Hot Springs as a soak en route.
Lift-served flow MTB at reasonable prices, hot springs nearby, a real town for resupply, Mt Revelstoke's Meadows in the Sky Parkway for an alpine drive without the climb. We've found dog sitters here before — could mean a real bike-park day for both of us.
A natural break on the long Revelstoke–Squamish stretch. Wildflower meadows, alpine lakes, dog-friendly Provincial Park trails — the kind of stop where you arrive late, walk a short loop with the dogs, and sleep with no schedule.
Granite, rainforest, ocean. Half Nelson and the Bonk-area trails are the world-class flow on the way down to Lopez. Stawamus Chief towers above town. Last Canadian stop before the ferry — a Pacific exhale before two weeks on Lopez.
The reason for the loop. Two to three weeks. Iceberg Point, Shark Reef, the slow ferry rhythm. Time to actually unpack, swim, ride the island, watch the baby learn to crawl on grass instead of inside a moving truck.
One basecamp at Mazama, two flavors of country: NCNP's drama up Hwy 20 (Maple Pass, Blue Lake, Cutthroat) and the dry, golden Methow Valley with its Sun Mountain flow trails. East side dodges most of the late-summer smoke. Late August is peak in both.
Oregon's "Little Switzerland" — granite peaks, alpine lakes, far fewer crowds than anything comparable. The natural break on the long Methow–Stanley stretch. Joseph is a real little western town; Wallowa Lake sits at the base of the Eagle Cap Wilderness like something out of a postcard.
September in Stanley is genuinely the sweet spot — cool nights, warm days, larches starting to turn, mosquitoes gone. Redfish Lake as the picture-postcard, Sawtooth Lake as the harder day, Iron Creek as the dog-friendly classic. Stanley itself is a dust-and-pickup-truck basecamp town.
A drive-up, family-friendly Idaho hot springs. Park at the campground, walk a quarter-mile flat trail to river soaks. Easier-on-the-baby alternative to Gold Bug. Last real soak before home.
Two real decisions shape this trip more than the others. Here's how they break down — interested in your read.
Both are 14-ish days, both end at Squamish. The fork is whether we chase the iconic glacier-and-lakes drive (Banff → Lake Louise → Icefields → Jasper) or take the quieter granite-and-hot-springs route (Kananaskis → Yoho → Bugaboos → Revelstoke). Boondocking matters here: Option A has multiple 3-night basecamps with dispersed sites, Option B is structurally a windshield tour with paid campgrounds.
The plan books ~21 nights on Lopez, arriving Aug 4 and departing Aug 24. Buffer on the return is now ~3 days (Wallowas is in, breaking up the long Methow→Stanley stretch). The question is whether to hold that buffer for weather/smoke flexibility, or compress Lopez to two weeks and extend dwell time at one of the basecamps you fall in love with along the way.
The plan has us entering at the south, traversing through Hayden and Lamar Valleys, exiting at Gardiner — basecamp in Tom Miner Basin. We skip the Old Faithful zoo entirely. The alternative is to skip Yellowstone too, save a day, and put it elsewhere (Glacier? Canada?). Yellowstone is 4 hrs from Park City — easy to revisit. But Lamar at dusk with binoculars is a real experience.
Every stop, every night, every drive — start to finish.
| Leg | Stop | Region | Nights | To next |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Outbound | Teton Valley Mike Harris + Teton Canyon |
Caribou-Targhee NF | 2 | 3.5 hr |
| Tom Miner Basin via Yellowstone traverse |
Custer-Gallatin NF, MT | 3 | 1.5 hr | |
| Bozeman / Paradise Valley resupply night |
Montana | 1 | 3 hr | |
| Missoula / Lolo NF Marshall Mtn MTB |
Montana | 2 | 3.5 hr | |
| Glacier NP East side · Many Glacier |
Lewis & Clark NF, MT | 3 | 1.5 hr + border | |
| Canada | Waterton Lakes first Canadian night |
Alberta | 1 | 3 hr |
| Kananaskis Banff back door |
Alberta | 3 | 2 hr | |
| Yoho NP Emerald Lake, Iceline |
BC | 2 | 3 hr | |
| Bugaboos granite spires + Lussier en route |
BC interior | 3 | 3.5 hr | |
| Revelstoke flow MTB + hot springs |
BC | 3 | 4 hr | |
| Manning Park drive break · meadows |
BC | 1 | 3 hr | |
| Squamish Sea-to-Sky |
BC | 2 | 3.5 hr + ferry | |
| Lopez | Lopez Island the long stay |
San Juans, WA | ~21 | 4 hr + ferry |
| Return | North Cascades + Methow single basecamp · Mazama |
Okanogan-Wenatchee NF | 6–7 | 5.5 hr |
| Wallowas "Little Switzerland" |
Wallowa-Whitman NF, OR | 2 | 5 hr | |
| Sawtooths · Stanley peak season |
Sawtooth NRA, ID | 5 | 2 hr | |
| Bonneville Hot Springs last soak |
Boise NF, ID | 2 | 6 hr | |
| Park City · home ~Sep 10 |
Utah | — | — |